Ancient eye makeup tradition recognized as cultural Heritage

Kohl, a dark pigment traditionally used around the eyes by both men and women, boasts roots stretching back millennia to ancient civilizations. While known as kohl in the Arabic-speaking world, it goes by different names elsewhere: kajal in South Asia, tiro in Nigeria, and sormeh in Iran. Historically crafted from materials like antimony or lead, modern kohl formulations now include other ingredients.

British-Lebanese writer Zahra Hankir’s family fled the Lebanese Civil War in 1975 and relocated to England. She recalls observing her mother applying makeup, a ritual that felt deeply meaningful. “It felt like she was connecting with something very profound,” she explains.

Hankir, author of *Eyeliner: A Cultural History*, believes UNESCO’s recognition frames kohl “not as a fashion or product, but as a living cultural practice that deserves protection.” This recognition helps preserve the knowledge, rituals, and craftsmanship surrounding its creation and use, ensuring their transmission across generations.

A conversation with an Iranian friend during dinner sparked Hankir’s interest in kohl’s history and symbolism. She discovered that the cosmetic holds deep meaning for women, minority groups, and those in the diaspora.

Kohl’s origins can be traced to ancient Egypt, Mesopotamia, and Persia, where it was used regardless of gender or social class, serving purposes beyond aesthetics, including spiritual expression and eye protection. Ancient Egyptians even included kohl pots in their tombs, highlighting its importance in the afterlife.

Queen Nefertiti is considered a key figure in popularizing kohl, her iconic bust showcasing the distinctive eyeliner. The image has inspired countless tutorials online, demonstrating the enduring appeal of her look.

Hankir’s research has taken her across the globe, from Kerala to Chad, Mexico, Jordan, and Japan, revealing that while eyeliner practices vary, the protective function remains a common thread. Uses range from shielding against sun and the “evil eye” to religious rituals and medicinal purposes. In Japan, geishas use red eyeliner as a protective symbol, while in Mexican-American Chola culture, it represents identity and cultural pride.

Even in Chad, men participate in beauty contests judged by women, often using kohl as part of their appearance. In Jordan, men use it as a rite of passage and a marker of singlehood. The practice of applying eyeliner to children is also common in Arabic-speaking countries.

Hankir emphasizes that UNESCO’s recognition of kohl was “long overdue,” acknowledging the efforts of communities in the Global South to preserve this tradition despite displacement, colonialism, and cultural loss. For her, applying kohl is a spiritual act, a connection to something far greater than simply drawing a line.